Port Macquarie & surrounds

Beyond the beach

Port Macquarie, once a penal settlement, has become one of the most exciting holiday destinations on Australia’s east coast.

It offers a dazzling array of accommodation options; a cosmopolitan choice of dining; wineries; outstanding convict architecture; and a hinterland full of delights. The essential introduction to Port Macquarie – or “Port” to the locals – is a cruise along Pacific Drive, which follows the coast, past majestic beaches and around headlands. Close to the town centre you’ll encounter the broad mouth of the Hastings River, where the river cruises start. Dolphin cruises are especially popular here, and if you take your swimmers along, you can “surf” in one of the cargo nets that are deployed from the stern of the boat – dolphins often swim up for a closer look. A less strenuous alternative is one of the Everglades Tours Waterbus cruises, which takes you down the Hastings River and into the natural splendour of Limeburner’s Creek, Governor’s Way, Regatta Cove and the man-made Newport Island Canals.

Other ways to experience this coast is parasailing with Port Water Sports, abseiling down one of the cliffs on the local headlands with Edge Experience, or hiring a bike and riding along the beaches. Port Macquarie also has several superb walks that offer sublime views and a thorough workout. The town’s loveliest beach walk starts from the park behind Town Beach and climbs Flagstaff Hill for a marvellous panoramic view of the headlands to the south. On the next section of this walk to Windmill Hill the trail runs close to the water’s edge, from where you can sometimes see dolphins and even migrating whales. If you’d like to go for a vigorous stroll, you can continue south all the way to Lake Cathie, which should take about three hours.

Port Macquarie boasts some of the state’s finest swimming beaches. High on anyone’s list is Town Beach, where the swell generated by the Hastings River breakwater creates perfect conditions for surfers at the northern end. Swimmers tend to prefer the southern end, sheltered by the bulk of Flagstaff Hill. The nearby cafe provides snacks, cold drinks and ice-creams.

Further south, along Pacific Drive, you’ll find Flynns Beach, one of the safest spots for swimming, boogie boarding and surfing. This family favourite is a great place to hang ten, and a Learn to Surf class at the Dawn Light Surf School is just the thing. The surf school also hires out boards and wetsuits. Still further south, Lighthouse Beach is crowned by its namesake, the sparkling white Tacking Point Lighthouse, which commands a broad swathe of sand stretching into the distance. Lighthouse Beach is also a local legend for its camel rides.

Just north of Lighthouse Beach, visit the Sea Acres Nature Reserve and Rainforest Centre, where you can eat in the cafe among the trees, and take a guided tour along the elevated boardwalk for a high-level view of one of the last remaining pockets of rainforest in the region.
Port Macquarie has a fascinating past and many reminders from the time it was first established as a penal settlement. The natural port at the mouth of the Hastings River was sighted in 1770 by Captain Cook, but it was not until 1818 that the area was explored, when Governor Macquarie sent out an expedition from Bathurst in search of an inland sea.

Luxury accommodation on the Mid North Coast, NSW

Essential stops for history buffs include the old courthouse on Clarence Street, built in 1869, and St Thomas Anglican Church, situated close to the town centre. The church was erected between 1824 and 1827, using 365,000 handmade bricks. Inside, beneath the front right pew, you'll find the grave of Commandant Captain John Rollands, who died a few weeks before the convicts laid the foundation stone. Historic Douglas Vale Vineyards dates back to the earliest days of the Hastings River settlement. Although only a small vineyard remains, the old timber cottage, built in 1859 by successful gold prospector George Francis, still stands. The region’s viticultural tradition is still alive, with four wineries: Cassegrain Hastings Valley Vineyard; Broken Bago Vineyards; Charley Brothers Wines; and Long Point Vineyard. All are just a short drive from town, and are open for tastings and cellar-door sales.

Behind Port Macquarie the hills of the Great Dividing Range rise swiftly, taking you up to a tangled green wonderland of rainforest, woodland and pastures. Among the highlights of this area are the captivating Wilson River Reserve, Borganna Nature Reserve, and spectacular 160-metre high Ellenborough Falls. Maps of the mountains are available from the Port Macquarie Information Centre, but you’ll need a 4WD to see the best that this region has to offer. There are some excellent tracks from Swans Crossing, which is accessible by 4WD through the village of Kendall, lying south-west of Port Macquarie. Take Zinc Road north from the entrance to the camping area, which connects with Blackbutt Road, the main track that runs along the ridges of the Bago Range. A detailed map will show many 4WD tracks running off Blackbutt Road. Head for Bago Bluff and The Rollover for spectacular views over the Hastings Valley.

Many of these areas were once logged, and have now become state forests, available for recreational use. Unlike national parks, dogs are allowed on the trails of these forests, as are horses and 4WDs. Anyone looking for a 4WD challenge should head for the area known as The Cells, which was named in gold-mining days when the steep terrain around the Cells River virtually imprisoned the miners. The track ends at the river, a succession of streams that become waterfalls and then swimming holes.

A number of fine lodges and self-contained country cabins have taken root in this superb region, offering a taste of bush living with a superb level of comfort and style.